Alappuzha
KeralaPosted by Steph 2009-04-14 21:31:00After 1 and 1/2 hour we reached Alappuzha (earlier Alleppey) on Saturday 28.03. evening. The city is called the "Venice of the East" because of its many canals. There we stayed in the Palmy Lake Resort located approx. 3 km outside the city, near the Punnamada Lake. This is a homestay run by family Mathew with 6 cottages in a wonderful garden ; they are big enough for 2 persons, clean, all with attached bathroom and small terrace. We paid 750Rs per night (off season). Meals and beverages (including beer!) can be provided throughout the day in the family’s house itself or in the cottage, and at a very cheap rate. You’d better book well in advance because at the time we were there, all cottages were occupied, though it was off season! Travellers from all over the world are staying there. The family has another guesthouse in the city with 6 rooms.
www.palmyresort.com
On the next morning they arranged for us a 4-hours rowing boat tour on the backwaters. Starting point was just behind the house. The “driver”, married and father of two, knows the backwaters like his pocket. It was a very relaxing journey, also very interesting because while passing along the bank you can see the people taking bath in the water, brushing their teeth, washing their clothes, fishing etc. Every child we met asked us for pens, which of course we didn't have, so next time we'd better carry a few to distribute... The rate for the tour was 700Rs. 
Motor boats and Houseboats are also available, but it's not really the best thing for the environment : earlier the inhabitants of the backwaters used to drink water from the river ; but over the past 15 years the water has been so spoiled by the exhausts of motor boats that nowadays drinking water needs to be supplied by boat to every household.
In June the rainy season is starting in Kerala and the vegetation is growing so fast that it is impossible to drive on the backwaters.
After the backwater tour we went to an ayurvedic center for a 3 HOURS (!) massage program. It was also arranged by the resort and as a resident in Palmy you get a 500Rs discount on the 1-hour rejunevation massage (normal rate 900Rs). Only the rice bags massage was not so great because it's quite painful...
Then we went to Alappuzha beach. It was very crowded but somehow there was an amazing atmosphere with the kites, the music and the sunset. The beach was clean - in spite of the crowd - and the water was incredibly warm - probably above 35°. 
We then went for dinner. When we asked the rickshaw driver to take us to Vembanad Restaurant, he seemed to know the place and so we forgot to tell him that it is actually located in the Allepey Prince Hotel. Strangely enough, the Vembanad restaurant is not near the Vembanad lake. It is somewhere in the opposite direction. That we didn't know. So after a while we arrived near the Vembanad lake and realised that the driver didn't know the place. Again we drove for maybe 20 min and finally arrived at the Vembanad restaurant. It's a nice place where you can seat outside near the swimming pool (thank god we had our mosquitoe repellent cream with us!), but it could be cosier and the waiters cleverer, though. Anyway, the food is reeeeaaaally good, especially the chicken roast Kerala and the rice pulao. But you can forget the wine...
www.alleppeyprincehotel.com
Phone: 0477 2243752 / 2243757
The next morning we left for Kovalam. There is no direct train or bus from Alappuzha to Kovalam so you have to change in Thiruvananthapuram (earlier Trivandrum). There are 3 trains from Alappuzha to Thiruvananthapuram : around 7am, 3pm and one more later in the evening. The first one was too early for us and the second too late, so we decided to take the bus. There are buses every 20min to Thiruvananthapuram (90Rs per pers.). It took us more than 4 hours to reach Thiruvananthapuram. From there we took a rickshaw to Kovalam...170Rs :( 
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